Uruguay claims to host the longest Carnaval in the world, boasting a whole month of activities throughout the month of February. Although Carnaval is celebrated throughout the country (and I've heard the parades in the small beach towns of Punta Del Diablo and La Pedrera are fantastic), the biggest events take place in the capital, Montevideo.
There are only 2 official public holidays for this month long party and these always fall on Carnaval Monday and Shrove Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. As such many people are known to up and leave the city for an extended weekend break on the official days of Carnaval and most shops and businesses close for the entire week. Despite this you can find many exciting and busy shows and events throughout the month of February.
By far the highlight of the Carnaval season is El Desfile de Las Llamadas (The Parade of The Calls). This is where the Candombe Comparsas (drumming groups) march for 15-20 blocks through the old districts of Sur and Palermo to pay homage to the culture and music of the black colonial slaves. The music is contagious, the dancers are colorful and half naked, the flags are big enough to cover your house and the atmosphere is electric!
This year the Desfile de Llamadas is on Thursday 5th and Friday 6th of February (24 different comparsas playing each night). They start around 9pm (although things are rarely punctual in Uruguay you may be pleasantly surprised at this well organized event!) setting out from the corner of Carlos Gardel and Zelmar Michelini. The route goes along Carlos Gardel, then Isla de Flores and finishes on the corner of Minas. There is plenty of standing/dancing room but if you want to sit and enjoy the view they set up stands and you can pay a reasonable price for a seated ticket.
These are the Comparsas that will play this year:
THURSDAY 5TH FEBRUARY FRIDAY 6TH FEBRUARY
1 – C 1080 1 – Elumbe
2 – Tronar de Tambores 2 – La Gozadera
3 – La Melaza 3 – Yambo Kenia
4 – Mi Morena 4 – Sarabanda
5 – La Fuerza 5 – Zumbae
6 – La Carolina 6 – Cuerdas de Ejido
7 – Son de Palermo 7 – La Figari
8 – La Jacinta 8 – Candongafricana
9 – La Roma 9 – La Zabala
10 – Makale 10 – Candombe Zambo
11 – Senegal 11 – Candombe Aduana
12 – Bandundu 12 – Al Toque Cardal
13 – La Clinica 13 – La Tangó
14 – Anofre Ebony 14 – Malanque
15 – Serenata Africana 15 – Kindú
16 – Son y danza 16 – La Chilinga
17 – Los Chin Chin 17 – Generación Lubola
18 – Africanisima Negranza 18 – Retumbe de Encina
19 – Tezirawa Ngumba 19 – De Isla de Flores
20 – Okavango 20 – Curumbé
21 – Camelan Ango 21 – Aunke
22 – Lulonga 22 – La Mazumba
23 – La 14 (invitada) 23 – La llama sigue encendida (invitada)
24 – Kimbara (invitada) 24 – Nigeria (invitada)
Although in my opinion this parade is THE must-see event (and there are TWO days so you really have no excuse to miss it!) there are also plenty of other things to do during Carnaval. The wonderful harmonies of the Murga groups can by heard throughout the city during these warm summer nights. In the sports club on 21 de Septiembre (about half way along the street between Gonzalo Ramirez and Bulevar Artigas...you'll hear them singing!) you can find Murgas every night during the first few weeks of February.
For more information on Carnaval 2009 click here (although its in Spanish you can find dates and times and great videos of the previous events)
